Paris V

 Rococo art, 
sunset drinks at Le Perchoir 
and indulgent dinner at Chez Moustache 

Les fêtes galantes at Le Musée Jacquemart-André, Bd Haussmann. 14 March – 21 July 2014. 
I have to admit that the art movement, which really sweeps me off my feet is not the uber-cool contemporary art we’re bombarded with at every international art fair or blockbuster exhibition, but the Rococo delights of the 18^th century Regency period (1715-23) in France. I love nothing more than an afternoon submerging myself in the romance of these wonders at London’s Wallace Collection and so upon reading about this little hideaway I was compelled to visit Le Musée Jacquemart-André, Bd Haussmann and drown myself in this ice cream parlour of dreams, the delicious pastel palettes of some of my best beloved paintings. Paul Verlaine’s 1869 poem A la promenade floated at the forefront of my mind as I stepped into the exhibition’s magic setting, immediately transported to the wonders of France’s most colourful century.  

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For those less familiar, Les fêtes galantes refer to a genre of paintings of the Rococo period, which depict amorous scenes of gaiety in the lush countryside, where idyllic figures from aristocrats to dancers, shepherds to cherubs are garlanded by flowers and musical instruments. Indulgence and pleasure are the resounding themes of the somewhat poetic works painted by Jean Antoine Watteau, Francois Boucher, Jean Honore Fragonard and their contemporaries. Across their paintings is a taste for curved lines and light and pastel colour palettes, which directly reflect the light-hearted content of the works. When you enter the palatial museum you are immediately seduced by the whirl of luxury that is the ornate, regency style furniture, the rich wallpapers from fuchsia to ochre yellow and emerald, which resemble a delectable tray of Laduree macaroons. The ‘Salon des tapisseries’ on the ground floor leaves you spellbound as you consider the hours of sewing by hand required to produce these magnificent tapestries, which stretch from floor to ceiling, depicting allegorical scenes as amorous as those of their Rococo neighbours. You are then led through to ‘Le Jardin d’Hiver’, where the ‘Chocolate Baron’, Emile Meurier created his private haven by following the English trend of a glass ceiling and a room decorated with Palm and Yucca trees crowned by Giambattista Tiepolo’s fabulous Italian fresco.

The first room of the exhibition was dedicated to paintings of the centuries most celebrated ballerinas, the beauties of the age, but more intriguing were Watteau and Boucher’s studies of Chinese women of the Orient, which illustrate their colonial interest in exoticism. Of course the romance is there from the beginning as we are faced with Boucher’s Pastoral, 1760, in which two lovers hide nestled in a garden, adorned with roses in their curly hair as the material of their 18^th century costume melts together. Then comes Fragonard’s La Surprise and La poursuite, which are symptomatic of the centuries interest in Neo Classical art as they draw from the Renaissance’s interest in classical antiquity by depicting allegorical figures such as Venus who represents divine love.

The almost unknown artist Carle Van Loo’s La Lecture Espagnol also draws from the Renaissance in its use of Titian-esque contrast between light and dark and a rich palette of deep cobalt blue, ochre yellow and browns rather than the romantic reds and pinks usually found in Rococo works. However, Nicolas Lancret’s Plaisirs du Bain, 1725 returns to the characteristics of Les Fetes Galantes with the paradox between the bathing women in diaphanous white dresses and the gaze of the clothed gentleman in the trees. This ‘male gaze’ is debated by many a feminist Art Historian from Pollock to Nochlin, but the most interesting alignment is of this work is with the leading French Impressionist painter Edouard Manet’s Le Dejeuner sur l’herbe, 1862, in which nude women are also juxtaposed with clothed men, but without the allegorical aspect to justify their nudity.
I could lead you through every room, work by work, but I would rather you experienced it for yourselves. There is something so magical and there is such an abundance of pure, untainted beauty in the poetic works of these Rococo painters. I would urge you to give yourself a morning at Le Musée Jacquemart-André when you next pass through Paris. However, if you can’t escape London, then the Wallace Collection in Marylebone is equally delightful.

Le perchoir, 14 Rue Crespin du Gast

With the allure of speakeasy vibes this unassuming entrance in the depths of Oberlampf is only marked by the endless line of Parisians waiting for the attention of a somewhat alarming, leather-clad bouncer. (Try and get there around 7pm weekdays or 5pm on weekends to avoid waiting) When you finally emerge from the elevator on the seventh floor, it's like walking in a dream. 

Your first heart-stopping view is the sunset over Montmatre and you haven't even taken in the beauty of the crowd. This watering hole attracts a cross section of fashion people, hipsters and laid back bohemians who swarm to indulgence in the chip shop, delicious cocktails and view. It's a very cosy atmosphere, so you're bound to leave with more friends than you arrived with. 

As the sun goes down the surrounding rooftops take on a rosy glow, which gives the setting a somewhat romantic feel - perfect for a more creative first date. The bar staff are charming and at 6euros for a glass of wine, it's the least extortionate of the cities rooftops. We had a little disaster and our cone of chips wrapped in newspaper got lost in translation, but the bar staff did not rest until we had them hand-delivered (with an extra box thrown in) to our perch. The boys are truly at your disposal if your chips are anything other than fabulous - perhaps they could get some vinegar on the go though? 

With service this slick, I would highly recommend Le Perchoir as a perfect spot to wow visiting friends who fancy straying from the beaten track. I think that the view is truly more magical than that of the Pompidou bar or the Eiffel Tower, but with the laid back atmosphere and low prices that will keep everyone chilled and happy. Look for this quirky street art and you''ll know your close by!

Chez Moustache, 4 Jean Pierre Timbaud

Yet another Oberkampf gem; Chez Moustache has more followers on facebook than most Parisian DJs could ever dream of. Rather than the white table cloths of central Paris' tourist haunts, I thought my visiting parents would prefer this little wonder for a cosy Saturday night supper. Nestled just beyond Canal St Martin, you are immediately seduced by the glow of candlelight Illuminating the sultry, but charmingly shabby black interior. The cocktail list reads like a fairy tale and the short but sweet menu puts a quirky Parisian spin on glutinous favourites like macaroni, fish & chips for the homesick and even delicate slices of salmon & ginger sashimi. 

The waiter was inevitably a charmer, but it was the rough and ready paper bag of fresh baguette that won over my father. They indulged in the most fabulously juicy burgers, served with the skinniest fries on grey slate a la mode, but I went for the spicy fish and oddly it was the tiny bowl of marinated mushrooms, which I fell in love with. They were absolutely exquisite. 

The house red wine was also to die for, but then again, when in France I'm easily impressed. Despite the interior design, the moody colour palette is counterbalanced by the energy of the young, bohemian crowd who spill in as the clock strikes nine. It's a perfect spot for a secluded date, but also a fun dinner with friends - choose your table wisely! As for pudding; I'll admit that as tempting as the apple crumble was, we ventured back along Canal St Martin for some beloved fro-yo under the bridge.