Paris VI

Immersive art at Musee Gustav Moreau,

to indulging at Soya, to dancing at Le Carmen 

to brunch at The Rose Bakery

Musee Gustav Moreau, 14 Rue de la Rochefoucauld, Pigalle. This unusual art museum in Pigalle was the home and studio of French symbolist painter Gustave Moreau 1826-98. As you wander up the tangles of staircases you truly feel the artist’s very presence amongst his work, because he created the museum during his lifetime.

 But, its not only his paintings you're exposed to, but the rest of his home is left untouched and exquisite pieces like this butterfly kitchen can be found in secret corners.

 

The paintings are all intensely dreamy like his fantasy piece Les Lincornes 1885 and Saloumee Tatouee, 1871, which illustrates his ability to use mixed media to create textured, polychromatic works of art. Moreau worked within a fantasy realm, which he developed from mythology and biblical stories to create entrancing, almost hallucinogenic works. If you want an experience of total immersion in art when in Paris, this is the place to come. 

I must also add that if you have a little more energy, the idyllic Musee de la vie Romantique, 16 Rue Chaptal is only a 5 minute walk and is nestled in the most charming little rose garden, which transports you to the South of France. 

 

The portraits are lovely and locks of hair romantic, but it’s the immediate sense of tranquillity inside the house and garden that you must dive in for before wandering up to see Sacre Coeur.

 

Soya, 20 Rue de la Pierre Levee, Oberkampf

Tonight my fellow nutrition nut and I had one of the most delicious, cosiest suppers at Soya. It is a beautiful neighbourhood restaurant, which feels as organic as its food with the gorgeous oak tables illuminated by candles. 

What was so wonderful was that this is the first time in the last year that I’ve been to eat absolutely anything off the menu, because it was all gluten free, sugar-free and vegan without compromising on the taste. We shared a vast, delicious mezze plate of dips like beetroot humus, creamed mushrooms, salads, grilled vegetables, toasted nuts and spicy harrissa quinoa. 

This feast was then followed by an impossibly indulgent sampling plate of desserts. The strawberry and watermelon panna cotta, cocoa and orange cheesecake, rhubarb and apple cake with their interpretation of crème anglais were all out of this world – absolutely heavenly. We left feeling so overly healthy that perhaps a naughty cocktail at Le Carmen was in order to taint our virtue. BUT, not before some surprise laser-tag on the canal care off some fellow eccentrics. 

Le Carmen, 34, Rue Duperre, Pigalle

Le Carmen is without doubt my favourite nightclub in the world, because it feels like anything but a nightclub. The setting is a rococo architectural masterpiece, where Bizet wrote his famous opera amongst its moulded frescoes, opulent chandeliers and mirrors. 

The luxurious sofas are all red velvet and there are even beds in the salons and cages above the dance floor. In the basement is what can only be described as a sweaty dungeon, where the wilder guests can really let their hair down as it nears 4am. 

  

Although the crowd are inevitably the young, beautiful bourgeouis-bohemians, it is anything but shabby chic, so keep it tidy if you want any hope of bypassing the notoriously difficult bouncers. Also, check ahead what’s happening that night, because they could be hosting anything from a DJ to an acoustic set from 12-6am.

Rose Bakery, 46 rue des Martyrs, Pigalle.

The famous Rose Bakery is the most simplistic, understated little hideaway, but the food is out of this world. Run by a Franco-English couple, their focus is wholesome, organic food and a welcoming atmosphere. Just beyond Hotel d’Amour, you will find this unassuming entrance, which will lead you into this ramshackle, barely-painted corridor lined with wooden tables. 

Behind the counter is a tantalising array of polychromatic salads, indulgent cakes, jars of homemade granola and even a bit of a green juice factory out back. The green juice is made from avocado, fennel, apple, spinach, ginger and is without doubt the most effective hangover cure in Paris (although, this is coming from a girl who cannot stand croissants)