Paris IV

Eccentric Collette to the art of Dries Van Noten’s Inspirations to drinks at Rosa Sur Seine to sushi at Nanashi 

We began an eccentric afternoon in Paris by dashing to Le Musee des Arts Decoratifs to indulge in their ‘introspective’ (rather than retrospective) of the quirky Belgian fashion designer Dries Van Noten. His eponymous brand is a point of infatuation worldwide as a result of his vibrant colour palettes, dynamic textures and unusual tailoring - which eventually led to suffering when nihilistic fashion came to power in the noughts. 

As we enter the exhibition we’re reminded that the focus is the polychromatic journey from his initial flash of inspiration to the final garment being wrapped up in ribbon. This inspiration takes the form of a diverse range of themes from enchanted gardens to the opulence of Rajasthan’s fabrics or even London’s punk scene and oriental pattern.

Van Noten simultaneously celebrates all mediums of art with his juxtaposition of album covers, films, vintage fashion and even Renaissance art alongside his creations. For example, he combines Yves Klein sculptural nude Venus Bleu with a waist-defining dress from their women’s collection 2010/11 and then further develops by citing a field of bluebells as his key influence. He also subtly draws from anthropology themes such as the effects of subverting normal social behaviour, the perculiar sensuality of the androgyny in his unisex dinner jackets and the role of class differences as demonstrated within his tendency to mix opulent, traditional fashion of the aristocracy with funky street fashion of contemporary youth culture.

As with the video artist Bill Viola's retrospective that I just reviewed at Grand Palais, Van Notem makes consistent use of film. Be it in his slow motion scene of a running model with her clothes falling away or my highlight of the entire exhibition - the absolutely sublime, enthralling, bewitching,  mesmerising video by Hubret Duprat -  l’education des trichopetres 1998 - of a hermit crab using his burrowing skills to create a piece of jewelry from gold leaf, pearl and turquoise.

As delightfully quirky as this exhibition may be, there is a sadly an underlying lack of emotional force or provocation behind what should be an utterly captivating look into the mind of an inspiring fashion designer. Unfortunately, in terms of curating, the clothes protected by glass combined with the rather ominous silence and miniscule video screens make the experience feel more like visiting Madame Tussands than a much anticipated ‘introspective’. However, please note that these are trivial issues, which don’t change the quality of the work or the fascinating philosophies behind his design process, which make it worth a visit.

Which led to a browse in hipsterland ...

I am willing to accept that if you don't have a taste for swirls of gold and floral prints and fear you'll find the whole explosion mind-numbingly confusing, the eclectic concept shop Collette, 212 Rue St Honore is seconds away. 

This is the temple of hipster-culture where you will be able to indulge in a better-organised, somewhat groovier blend of controversial art literature, lust-worthy high fashion, pristine records and Le maquillage galore in a nook overflowing with an eccentric mix of tailor-made scents and endless pots of neon glitter. The shop's walls are adorned with thought-provoking material to ponder. 

The crowd are unsurprisingly the young, beautiful and alternative Parisians and yes, the staff could be the cast of the next Victoria Secret fashion show. Although I must add that their facial expressions are so habitually sullen that it makes you feel as if you’ve walked into a wedding in latex.

Which led us to drinks…

After a little more culture vulture prowling, the heavenly warm weather led us to Rosa Bonheur sur Seine, 37 quay d'Orsay. On the surface it is just another shabby-chic hotspot to meet for an presswork apero, but in fact it so much more. When you’ve bought your plastic cup of oh-so-surprisingly delicious rose, you select your perch at one of the battered, but buzzing communal picnic tables. 

You only have to have a quick glance over your shoulder to feel dwarfed by the magnificent Pont Alexander III Bridge and the untainted beauty of the river Seine in the evening sun. The juxtaposition of this tattered little collection of tables and the opulent architecture of this famously affluent quartier is definitely worth the horrors of the portaloo (skip to Musee D’Orsay instead).

Which led us to dinner…

I was recently reminded that in Paris the distance of a few metres can make a monumental difference in the atmosphere of the neighbourhood and this certainly applies to Nanashi, 31 Rue Paradis, which truly is a diamond in the rough. Despite the potential sketchiness of the surrounding streets the bohemian haunt (also found in the snazzier Le Marais) is renowned for its delicious Japanese and Vegetarian food as well as the quirky interior design. The walls are lines with fresh produce, the colourful tables are adorned with wildflowers, heady candles and certainly wouldn’t go amiss in a Cuban canteen. 

We shared a feast of absolutely fabulous salmon chirashi, miso soup, beetroot & aubergine salad, spring rolls and I was even allowed to nip across the road to buy a cheeky avocado. The best part was that our dinner was guilt-free, because unlike the hipster sushi spots you’ll stumble on in Le Marais, this mountain of food was completely affordable. After a long day of nattering in French on the shop floor, the delightful staff were more than happy to indulge us in a little ‘franglish’, which is always necessary when the suggestion of an Asian menu is faintly scrawled across a tattered black board. By far the most brilliant part of the whole experience was the fact that they don’t fill their shakers with salt, but with seeds - the exquisite pockets of nutrition that I am forever denied by the extortionate supermarket pricing.