Tuesday 22 July 2014

Dennis Hopper

Dennis Hopper: The Lost Album 
The Royal Academy, London
26th June - 19th October

"Like all artists I want to cheat death a little and contribute something to the next generation" Dennis Hopper
  

During my 48hour pause in London between Paris and New York I had just enough time to stop by Dennis Hopper’s retrospective in the Burlington Gardens wing of the Royal Academy. Although, I must begin by admitting that in this rare instance it was not my own initiative, but that of a knowledgable friend, which lured me in. Surprisingly, it was rather refreshing for me to enter an exhibition without any prior experience of the artist's work, surrendering myself to the guidance of a true fan of Dennis Hopper's films. 


All I knew about Hopper was that he was another beautiful face of 1960s Hollywood alongside boys like James Dean, who we still lust after today. But, much like my experience of Robert Mapplethorpe’s retrospective in Paris, I’ve come away feeling somewhat entwined in Hopper’s life and loves with a wish to further explore. As with Mapplethorpe's bohemian dream in the elusive Chelsea Hotel, New York, Hopper was simultaneously documenting his experiences as a frequenter of Andy Warhol's Factory - giving us a window into that period of extraordinary creative development. Given that both retrospectives were exhibiting the works of recently departed artists, one can't help, but ponder the question; why it is that an artist's work truly does seem all the more poignant and impactful once they are dead?



 Illustrating a real cross section of 1960s American culture, the exhibition shows all sides of the story from the decade's social progress to the suffering of many during the time of the Civil Rights movement. You immediately feel a close connection with the works when you realise that Hopper had hand-selected these images for his 1970 exhibition and these are the exact vintage prints, which featured in it.


 It is incredibly powerful watching him successfully blend the spheres of art, fashion, photography and politics across this display of 400 photographs. Some of his photographs are incredibly sensual, some simply capture a moment of utter liberation, but they are all equally captivating. The majority of works are intense, intimate portraits, but the expansive scenes of East and West Coast America in the clip of Easy Rider and the shots Mexico are equally breath-taking.  

  
Given my naivety, I was grateful that the Royal Academy provided us with informative posters at the entrance to the exhibition, which were pivotal in understanding the context of Hooper’s work. However, it was increasingly frustrating as we wandered around that there were no blurbs, so we were clueless as to the setting or subjects of many of the images. Between us we were able to recognize a few of the well-known faces like Marcel Duchamp or Peter Blake, but I wish we could have known where the photographs were taken, especially the scenes of euphoria in hippie communes or what may have just been a festival.


Evidently the notoriety of his subjects like James Dean and Paul Newman were intrinsic to the building of his profile as a photographer. As he explored texture in the iconic image of Paul Newman below, he was solidifying his position as a true artist. Hopper was well known for his roles in films like Blue Velvet, True Romance and Apocalypse Now, but he also held the deadly, but dreamy combination of being a successful filmmaker, photographer and artist. 





A real polymath; his 1969 film Easy Rider - projected in the exhibition - cemented his role as a director when it won coveted awards at Cannes film festival and was later nominated for an Academy Award. The journalist Ann Hornaday described it as "a portrait of counterculture heroes raising their middle fingers to the uptight middle-class hypocrisies. Easy Rider became the cinematic symbol of the 1960s, a celluloid anthem to freedom, macho bravado and anti-establishment rebellion."


In terms of curation, the presentation of the photographs was refreshingly simplistic. I really like how rather than being framed in the sort of obnoxious Ikea frames you see in so many contemporary art galleries, they were humbly presented.They were black and white photographs of a modest size, which were displayed thematically, although perhaps too close together. Nevertheless, it was exciting being liberated from any particular chronological order and subsequently suffering the dismay of plodding along at the pace of the crowd. Instead, we were able to dive between whatever works took our fancy; be it Mexican tombstones or hippies frolicking in the wild. I fell madly in love with many of the beautiful bohemians he shot on his travels, one of which is this gentleman at the bar below. 



 Hopper was famous for his eye for composition, given that he never cropped or altered his images. This gives his work an untainted beauty, a sort of raw purity, which is hard to achieve in the 21st century world of contrived Instagram posts and various other sources of visual bombardment. As seen above, he has an eye for contrasting patterns and fabrics, which bring a vibrancy, an energy to his work. I loved how images of the glitterati of 1960s America, artists like Andy Warhol and Martial Raysse were juxtaposed with shots of Martin Luther King’s campaign and even the Hell’s Angels bikers in their natural habitat. Furthermore, the exhibition serves as a window into the glamour and underlying suffering of Americans in the 1960s. The sincerity of portraits of his contemporaries like Roy Lichtenstein are rather moving, because you can truly see the depth of Hopper's friendships with his subjects shining through. There is an intimacy that you cannot fabricate. 



At moments it feels like you’re living a Jack Kerouac novel, with endless images of the young and beautiful, the starving, but free. Then you are exposed to these incredibly sincere shots of human suffering; the energy of fighters in the Spanish bull ring or the tension of political campaigns and you are assured of the poignancy of his work. I would highly recommend dedicating an afternoon to this exhibition before the end of the summer. You leave well versed in the highs and lows of 1960s America and the bittersweet fame of his contemporaries. Dennis Hopper truly puts to shame all of the 21st century 'polymaths' with his photography and film as you fall prey to the allure of the untainted beauty in his work, its  quivering honesty. 







Saturday 19 July 2014

St Germain

A guide to 
the wonders of 
 St Germain, Paris.

After the sanded white floors and shabby-chic interior of my bohemian nest in Canal St Martin, I was reluctant to move to St Germain, but i've ended up discovering so many wonderful places. My new home on Rue du Vieux Colombier is rather enchanting, because it truly feels like sleeping in a museum or flea market.



 The elderly owners once made epic journeys around the world collecting aboriginal art, gorgeous oak furniture and hundreds of beautiful books in a variety of tongues. Unsurprisingly, many of my endless stream of guests have made fairly smooth attempts to poach this gem of an apartment from me. 




Thanks to the flat's proximity to Jardin du Luxembourg, I have had the pleasure of being able to run in one of the most beautiful parks in Paris every morning before work and each day I seem to seem something magical. 



A recent example would be the bizarre sight of hundreds of gardeners individually wrapping the roses in plastic bags at 7am. Apparently they are striving to protect the petals from approaching rainfall. I thought this concept was enchanting- the sort of attention to detail you would only find in Paris.



Then this morning as I scampered along in the drizzle I found this series of photographs of wartime battlefields, which I only discovered, because I was having to circle the park's exterior given my early rising. I also always finish my run with a moment of quiet solitude in the Saint Sulpice church and this is one of the things I will miss the most about Paris. 


And when the rain subsides Jardin du Luxembourg is always a dreamy place to tie up your bike, pull up a metal chair and enjoy the sun for a moment. Go and find the fountain behind the main Senate building. It is such a wonderfully tranquil spot to meditate undisturbed. 





Art Fair in Saint Sulpice Square, 6e

I thought that moving to St Germain after the arty atmosphere of Canal St Martin would be the end of all creative expression. However Laura and I stumbled upon free art classes in the market under Saint Sulpice cathedral and were taught to print posters by a charming Italian artist. In honour of the day of wandering, my poster read, 'dolce fare niente' (the pleasure of being idle). It was such a simple pleasure padding around his pop-up studio barefoot, our hair tied back with paint brushes. We were finally creating decorations for our apartment after only sketching in pencil for the last few months.




Vietnam Un et Multiple
 Orangerie Jardin du Luxembourg, 6e

Back in Jardin du Luxembourg the French-Vietnamese associated just staged this gorgeous little exhibition of Vietnamese photography in the Orangerie with its floor of pebbles. Having spent a lot of time alone in Cambodia, this exhibition really moved me, bringing the memories flooding back as I stared at images of the laughing elderly ladies and joyful children. 




Editions Ivrea, 1 Place Paul Painlevé

This bookshop is a jewel, but sadly on the brink of closure. One of my wisest contemporaries led me here on my last morning in Paris and I could not have been more grateful. Its few bookshelves are crammed with delicate first editions, philosophy and some fascinating translated works from across the globe. If you want to read about theories on art, psychoanalysis, economics, politics, social criticism or even music or theatre. They will have something for you to fall in love with. 






Deyrolle, 46 Rue du Bac, 6e

My darling Gigi recommended this to me and it is absolutely unmissable for any curious soul. Infatuating zoologists, botanists, mineralogists and all manner of nature lovers for hundreds of years; Deyrolle is a feast for the eyes. 


The establishment was started by Jean Baptiste Deyrolle in 1831 with the philosophy that in order for people to protect nature, they must first be able to understand it. The shop downstairs is charming, but once you ascend to their museum filled with butterflies, exotic animals, mounted birds and insects you will be left utterly spellbound. 



But, what makes it all the more intriguing is that every piece is for sale, so as you wander you can play interior designer and wonder where you would place these eccentricities in your mansion (or university bedroom). We curious souls were took particular pleasure in rooting through all the different drawers searching for bargain butterflies for less than 20 euros.  



 Prescription Cocktail Club, 23 Rue Mazarine, 6e

St Germain may have surrendered its crown as the Parisian hotspot to the likes of Le Marais, but a handful of charming establishments are keeping it afloat. My favourite being the elusive speakeasy Prescription Cocktail Club with it's blacked out windows. You are immediately transported to prohibition in New Orleans with a little dalliance in the Jazz Age.



The second level, - an exquisitely well converted library - will most certainly capture your imagination. The candlelit nooks with their velvet sofas and the tantalizing list of cocktails infused with rose and grapefruit make this place a winning first date or a quirky spot for girls night. The chandelier of gentlemen's hats is my favourite detail. The bouncers are particularly charming, but don't try and enter in big groups if you want a chance of entering.



Blueberry Maki, 6 Rue de Sabot, 6e

This little sushi joint deep in St Germain is an absolute treasure. Their creative approach to Japanese cuisine is making waves across Paris. Nico and I went for mango, raspberry and salmon sushi wrapped in mint leaves with avocado on the side and it was absolutely divine. They also had an incredible vegan and sugar-free pudding of translucent berry jelly and coconut cream, which is definitely going to lure me back before I leave Paris. 



Despite the food being so delicious, it was the interior design, which drew is in. The ceiling is lined with lanterns and you sit tucked against the white cave walls illuminated by neon lights.



Le Hibou, 16 Carrefour de l'Odeon, 6e 

Opened by the people behind local hotspot La Palette, Rue de Seine, Le Hibou has become a hive of activity as the bourgeois-bohemes of St Germain come out to play. The interior was done by the infamous due Clemence and Clement Goutal and is a cross behind the kind of sultry speakeasies you'd find on the Lower East Side, New York and a good old English pub. 


But, the most fabulous thing about the establishment is that they have created the most atmospheric toilets I have ever experienced. They are adorned with fairy lights, intricate mosaics and candles wafting sensual scents.


 If feeling indulgent, stop by after dinner for a cheeky rice pudding or chocolate mousse for two. Otherwise, its perfect for a late night drink to soak up the atmosphere of St Germain. We stopped by whilst every other Parisian was absorbed in the world cup final and it served perfectly as our little haven of tranquility for the evening. 



Thursday 17 July 2014

Paris IX

An Eclectic 
Saturday in Paris


9am Puces Porte de Vanves, 

Avenue Georges Lafenestre. 

This offbeat market is so much more approachable than the overwhelming Marche aux Puces Saint-Ouen, which require a whole day of searching. Sadly, there are hardly any vintage clothes apart from a couple of stalls of incredibly expensive silk and lace negligees. However, the old photograph albums, endless plates of exquisite jewellery and my beloved golden teaspoons, will leave you spellbound. It is enchanting, because each stall is more magical than the last and you can find yourself spending a little more than you intended on anything from an ostrich feather fan a la Jay Gatsby to beautiful musical instruments. Go early to find the best deals and don't plan on walking home with your finds crammed into a bin bag. It will explode. 




11am La Grande Mosquee de Paris,

 2bis Place du Puits de l'Ermite


The Grand Mosque of Paris was founded in 1926 by the French Colonial Empire as a gift of thanks to the Muslim infantry who fought in WWI. It has long since been treasured as a tranquil place of worship for the community in the 5th arrondissement, but also as a spiritual place for visitors to come and find a moment of peace. The gardens, which are entwined with roses and lush greenery are a wonderfully romantic place to meet on a sunny afternoon. Don't forget to cover your arms and legs otherwise you will be given the leopard print apron of shame to wrap around your waist. 




1pm Le Bal Cafe,
6 impasse de la defense

This little gem is the hipster dream; a brilliant little bookshop, gallery space and cafe with a contemporary modern interior balanced by platters of decadent cheesecakes, scones and gingerbread. Go in the morning to catch the fabulous breakfast menu.



This was a much needed coffee break after a naughty dive into the somewhat traumatic Musee d'Erotisme, which I won't elaborate on for fear of being removed from the blogosphere. So, i'll instead say that the gardens of the Palais Royal were a much lovelier place to pause for a moment and rest our arms on the walk to Jeu de Paume.



3pm Oscar Munoz
Jeu de Paume, 1 Place de la Concorde


The next stop was Jeu de Paume, one of my favourite museum's in Paris. Oscar Munoz is a Columbian photographer whose work has been highly respected for more than forty years. As illustrated by this exhibition, his eternal focus has been the preservation of the fragile moment before an image is permanently fixed. 





He poetically records the sadness of passing memory and our intrinsic desire to pause time.  The exhibition was a perfect blend of video, sculpture, installations and drawing, which all focused on photography as a memory tool – using the potential power of light and shadow to create beautiful art. Our favourite piece was blowing on mirrors to reveal tiny portraits illuminated by our breath.





5pm Merci, 116 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 3e


Merci follows the same pattern as the over populated concept shop Colette on Rue Faubourg St Honore, but with sufficient breathing space to freely browse. Nestled behind it's converted library/coffee shop, this vast space houses hipster threads, organic cosmetics, exquisite jewelry and an eclectic blend of quirky stationary, homeware and books.




 It's a dreamy way of passing twenty minutes as you approach the edge of Le Marais. What is so wonderful about this shop is the affordable price range. Of course, some of the jewelry and clothes are extortionate, but there's plenty of stationary, sale items and kooky gifts to keep even the smallest of budgets  entertained. Definitely worth a stop - including a quick coffee in their fabulous chairs.


9pm Le Resevoir - Mary de Vivo, 
16 rue de la Forge Royale, 11e


Le Resevoir is very similar to the my beloved Le Comptoir General on Canal St Martin. You can eat, you can drink and you can most certainly dance. You enter through an unmarked door and as the velvet curtain is pulled back you find yourself in an opulent, yet crumbling old ballroom, which is decorated with an eclectic range of snakeskin chairs, cages and the odd bit of taxidermy. 


Its a very bohemian crowd - all gathering to indulge in the delicious puddings, endless bottles of red wine and most importantly to minesweep abandoned chocolate almonds on the tables. 





But, what makes it such a fabulous place to spend an evening is the music. We went to hear a Brazilian singer/magician who had us twirling around in front of all the more sedate customers. After midnight the space descends into mayhem as space is cleared for the DJ. He played everything from old school Michael Jackson to J-Lo and various South American bands. We were certainly kept on our toes.


11pm Bastille Day Fireworks, la Seine. 
My final night in Paris just so happened to be the joyful Bastille day where Paris descends into apocalyptic scenes as everyone races towards the Eiffel Tower to be part of the spectacle. From our spot on Pont Alexandre III, we could see people sitting on bonnets of their cars, which were trapped in the mass of people dancing and celebrating, with a bottle in one hand and a camera in the other. 



To end the night we popped our heads into the 'Bals des Pompiers' (fireman's ball) kicking off on my street. Unfortunately, the scenes before us were definitely more Magaluf than St Germain, but it was worth the trip for the sailor's hats we cheekily pinched - bring on Halloween 2014.